This weekend, Persians around the world celebrated the traditional New Year holiday of Norooz (which means "New Day"), which is marked by the vernal equinox. I decided to invite my Persian friend over for dinner, as an opportunity to veganize some traditional dishes.
I also decided to participate in one of the primary traditions of the holiday, the haft sin table (which means "seven s's"). In Persian homes, a special table is created displaying seven symbolic items:
- sabzeh(سبزه) - wheat, barley or lentil sprouts growing in a dish - symbolizing rebirth
- samanu (سمنو)- a sweet pudding made from wheat germ - symbolizing affluence
- senjed (سنجد)- the dried fruit of the oleaster tree - symbolizing love
- sîr (سیر)- garlic - symbolizing medicine
- sîb (سیب)- apples - symbolizing beauty and health
- somaq (سماق)- sumac berries - symbolizing (the color of) sunrise
- serkeh (سرکه)- vinegar - symbolizing age and patience
Many haft sin tables include other items of meaning, but these are the basics. Thankfully I was able to pull together all seven myself. (#2, samanu, had stressed me a bit, as the pudding takes a full seven days to prepare! But I found some at our local Persian market, so happily I could check that one off my to-do list.) Below is a picture of my very first, most humble attempt at a haft sin table:
With the table display complete, I could focus on my Norooz menu: khoresh-e qormeh sabzi, basmati rice with tadiq, tomato and cucumber salad, and lavash.
For the first time, I tried my hand at making khoresh-e qormeh sabzi, or fresh herb stew (although I actually used dried herbs, ahem.) I have adapted the recipe below from New Food of Life, by Najmieh Batmanglij.
Khoresh-e Qormeh Sabzi
- 2 large onions, thinly sliced
- 4 bags of Morningstar Farms Meal Starters Steak Strips
- 3 T olive oil
- 1 1/2 t salt
- 1/4 t black pepper
- 1/2 t tumeric
- 1/3 c kidney beans
- 4 whole dried Persian limes (I got these at the Persian market)
- 1 3/4 c dried herbs, mix of parsley, cilantro, fenugreek, and chives (I found this mix at our Persian market. Note that you can also use fresh herbs, of 4 c parsley, 1 c chives, 1 c cilantro, and 1 c fenugreek, but then you have to fry the herbs, which is just a heckuva mess if you ask me.)
- 4 T lime juice
- Place a sieve (or a cheesecloth, which is what I used) in a bowl of warm water and soak the herbs for 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
- Brown the meat (thawed) with the onion and oil in a large Dutch oven or stockpot. Add salt, pepper, and turmeric. Add 4 c water, kidney beans, and limes. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 10 minutes, sirring occasionally.
- Add the herbs and lime juice to the pot. Cover and simmer for another 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
- Check seasoning (adjust as necessary) and ensure the beans are tender. Keep over very low heat (or put in a casserole dish in a warm oven until ready to serve.)
We served the khoresh with tadiq (sometimes written tah dig), a delicious Persian preparation of rice. (I feel incredibly lucky to have a Persian friend who can prepare this for me, as it is truly fantastic and my own attempts at creating it have all been hopeless failures.) Tadiq is a golden, crispy layer of rice that forms at the bottom of a deep, nonstick pan. Some traditional methods achieve the crust by using butter or yogurt, but my friend gets great results with just olive oil. I'm afraid I can't give much more instruction, since, as I've said, tadiq has thus far eluded me. Maybe my friend will do us all the honor of a how-to guest post on the subject?
For a simple, light and fresh accompaniment, I made a salad from the same cookbook, with a few modifications:
Tomato and Cucumber Salad
- 2 firm ripe tomatoes
- 1 seedless cucumber
- 3 T olive oil
- 2 T lime juice
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1/2 t salt
- 1/4 t pepper
- 2 scallions, chopped
- 5 radishes, thinly sliced into half-moons
- 1 c chopped fresh parsley
- 1/4 c chopped fresh mint
- 1/4 c chopped fresh cilantro
Place tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and herbs into a large bowl. Whisk the oil, lime juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pour over vegetable-herb mixture and toss.
I was really pleased with how it all turned out, particularly the khoresh. I wasn't sure how the Morningstar Farms steak strips would hold up under such prolonged heat - would they be tough and rubbery? (Let's face it, they're a little tough and rubbery to begin with.) To my pleasant surprise, however, they became incredibly tender, sort of shredding the way real meat does. The kidney beans were delicious in the stew, and next time, I think I'll add more. The salad was a no-brainer, but it was delightful, with the mint adding a crisp and refreshing taste.
It was my first Norooz, but definitely not my last. Next year, I'll try for dessert. (A little vegan baklava, anyone?)
